The Amazing Acropolis Anafiotika neighborhood

Visiting the Acropolis? Try getting there via a stroll through the narrow streets of the Anafiotika neighborhood which will take you back in time and give you  an unexpected feeling that you are on an island somewhere in the Aegean.

 

Situated just below the imposing rock of the Acropolis, as if heaven sent.  This picturesque and magical “island” neighborhood is located in the heart of Athens at the edge of the neoclassical Plaka area.  Many refer to it an “an oasis of serenity located in the center of the bustling city”.

Background History:

Initially constructed and occupied by Cycladic craftsmen (marble, stone-carvers, carpenters, builders, etc.).  They settled mostly from the island of Anafi in the 19th century.  They migrated to Athens in search of work to rebuild the capital and to erect King Otto’s palaces.  One can definitely see the Cycladic influence in the architecture.

 

The white houses with blue shutters built on tiny cobblestone alleys, and the aromatic scent of Jasmin and the bright pink bougainvillea vines were a reminder of their homeland.  Refuges from Asia Minor joined the population following the Catastrophe of Asia Minor in 1922, bringing diversity to the area.

 

This construction just below the sacred rock was illegal and initially the authorities turned a blind eye. Eventually, the governmental urban development program decided it was time to eliminate the small settlement. As a result, in the 1950’s the Ministry of Culture demolished 20 houses and conducted extensive expropriations in the 1970’s.

 

Today the settlement consists of 60 houses. The Archaeological Service uses 15 of them.  The remaining 45 are occupied either by relatives of the first inhabitants or by simple squatters.  The houses are very tiny; only 8 to 36 m² (about 24 to 100 square feet). They are architectural examples of “simple structural and intelligent saving of needs”.  Their flat roofs interconnect with each other in a beehive manner.

 

It is noteworthy that the serpentine streets between Stratonos Street and the Acropolis rock remain anonymous (no street names) and the huts are numbered as “Anafiotika 1, 2” etc. The permanent residents in 2015 were 65 and among them 4 children.

 

How to get there:

From the Acropolis Metro Station walk down Lysikratous Street, which is near the pillars of Olympian Zeus. From the Lysikratous Monument, follow Shelley Street. You can also get there from Aeolou Street (Monastiraki Metro Station), after passing the Airs (four winds monument), climb the stairs that lead to the entrance of the Old University.

 

You can also access from Mitropoleos Street, turn to Mnisikleous and climb Rangavas Street. The easiest and most popular access to Anafiotika is via the stairs right next to Saint George of the Rock church. When you start walking uphill, you will have the impression that the stone alleys lead to a dead end. But they don’t, just continue walking and you will get to the top in no time to enjoy a most spectacular view of Athens.

 

Future of the neighborhood:

There are many questions and plans on what will be the next chapter of this neighborhood. One is to transform it into an archaeological site. Cut off from Plaka and annex it to the Agora and the Acropolis.  Another is to expropriated it and in various ways use it for tourism.

Of course the inhabitants and many others, including myself, would like it to be left alone.  Why would anyone even think of destroying such a beautiful place?

You can never replace the sensation my sorority sisters and I had last April when walking through the Anafiotika neighborhood.  The magical view of the entire city of Athens below, while at the same time feeling that you are on a calm island somewhere in the southern Aegean.

 

References and further reading:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anafiotika

http://www.visitgreece.gr/en/main_cities/best_walking_spots_around_athens